-You can see the collecting date when you receive it. It’s on the lid of the package.
-Ensure the temperature of the area at which you live. Killifish eggs can’t survive if the temperature is lower than 20 degrees Centigrade(68 degrees Fahrenheit) because they will be cold and dead during ship to you.
-Please follow the instruction in the manual strictly for the preferable outcome.
**free fairy shrimp eggs 2 capsule(2,000 eggs)
**free Indian Almond Leaves around 5 grams
How to hatch the Eggs of Killies
Peat moss is the most common medium used to incubate killifish eggs. The incubation time varies with different species but it should be quite safe to assume that eggs of the Nothobranchius will hatch in 6 to 8 weeks when kept at 29 degrees Centigrade.
The peat should always be stored in a dark and cool place. A foam box is best because it will keep the temperature constant. Eyed-up eggs are a sure indication that the eggs are fully developed.
When you are ready to hatch the eggs, do not separate them from the peat when you wet them. The eggs won’t hatch without the peat.
When “eyes” appear in the eggs, it would mean it’s “Hatching time”. But even if you cannot spot the eyes, it’s okay to wet the peat if you think the eggs are fully developed.
To wet the peat, fill up a plastic tray with aged water to a depth of about 5 cm. I usually use water from an established fish tank.
Pour the peat into the “hatching tray” and gently break up the lumps. When the peat has settled to the bottom, scoop away the floating debris. It’s important to keep the surface of the water clear or else it will be very difficult to spot and catch the fry when they hatch. But be careful when removing the floating debris. Although eggs should sink, some may be attached to the floating peat.
If the timing is right, you should see fry within a few hours. If not, wait at least 2 days. The fry won’t be able to swim very well when they are newly hatched. For a few hours, they will be just lying on top of the peat, making wriggling movements.
Do not catch them immediately but wait a few hours for them to become “free-swimming” before transferring them into a “raising tray”. This is where the fish will be raised until they are about 3 weeks old.
The best tool for transferring fry is a turkey baster. Eyedroppers, sold in pharmacies, can be used for catching fry too. The only drawback with an eyedropper is that you will have a lot more *fun* chasing the fry around.
Be very gentle when transferring fry. Rough handling can lead to broken backs and dead fish. It is not a good idea to use a net to transfer fry as the fish may suffer shock and trauma when removed from water.
Be sure to have some Java or Christmas moss in the “raising tray”. Moss encourages the growth of infusoria and also serves as a “security blanket” for the fry.
To promote infusoria, Put a drop or 2 of liquidfry into the water. It’s also useful to have some snails in the tray as their droppings are food for infusoria. Do not put too many fry into one tray or else the mortality rate will be high.
Two days after wetting, dry the peat and bag it. Chances are very good that there will be more fry when you wet the peat again in another 2 weeks. Some eggs, by nature, will not hatch during the first wetting or even the 2nd and 3rd wetting. It’s known as diapause, mother nature’s back- up system to ensure that in the event of a false or freak shower, not all the fish will be wiped out when the pond dries up again.
It’s always a good idea to mark down the species and the hatching date on the raising tray, more so if you are raising more than one species of killie.
How to Raise Killies
There is no need to provide aeration or filtration in the “raising trays.” I never change the water in the trays. I only top them up with aged water as the fry grow. Remember to use only aged water. If you add water straight from the taps, all the fry will be dead the next day. I age my water by letting it stand in a bucket for at least 2 days.
The fry do not take well to water changes. Changing water, checking on the trays several times a day, overfeeding or moving the trays about unnecessarily can result in massive die-offs.
One of the best food for Nothobranchius fry is Artemia. I feed only once a day during the first week. Do not overfeed as too much uneaten brine shrimp can contaminate the water and kill the fry. Microworms and vinegar eels are suitable fry food too but it can be a hassle harvesting them. Swollen bellies are a sure sign that the fry are eating well. Fish rarely starve to death. More often than not, it is overfeeding that kills them. Do not be over-zealous when feeding the fry.
Raise the water level as the fry grow. Always keep an eye out for dead fish and remove them from the tray as soon as you spot them. Killies are good jumpers but the fry won’t jump so there is no need to put any cover on the tray.
Do not leave your “raising tray” directly under the sun. It can get too hot for the fry as still water heats up in a very short time. Usually, a layer of scum/oil will form on the surface of the water. It won’t do any harm to the fish but if it bothers you, remove it by sliding a sheet of newspaper over the surface.
When the fry are 2 weeks old, I supplement their diet of baby brine shrimps with chopped tubifex worms. That’s when their growth rate starts to accelerate. At 3 weeks of age, the fry are ready to be transferred into a proper tank.
I use small tanks to raise the 3 week old fry to adult stage. My tanks are about 20 litres in volume. I usually try to grow some plants inside the tanks. Floating plants are good for killie tanks too as they help prevent the fish from jumping.
The fry won’t jump but adults will. And they will jump through the narrowest of gaps.
You will never hatch every egg you get nor raise every fry you hatch. It’s very much a numbers game. In nature, for every fry that reaches adult stage, hundreds perish. So be happy if you can raise 75% of your fry to the adult stage.